Cadavre Exquis by Bruno Fazzolari & Antonio Gardoni

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: camphor, blood orange, dried fruits, star anise, cypress, marigold, ylang-ylang, benzoin, vanilla, chocolate, civet

Comment: Cadavre Exquis is a limited edition release

Cadavre Exquis is a collaboration between Bruno Fazzolari and Bogue Profumo's Antonio Gardoni, inspired by a surrealist parlour game from the 1920s. During the game, the players take turns adding words or images to a composition (or, in this case, accords), completely unaware of what the other participants have added until the very end. With the pre-agreed olfactory theme being a gourmand, like the game, the final result for Antonio and Bruno was unpredictable and surprising.

The opening is both dusty and camphorous, with a prominent coupling of chocolate and patchouli waiting in the wings. One also discerns star anise, which heightens the dark cacao effect. With suggestive fruity flourishes of a dried or stewed nature, the composition gradually becomes less gritty and noticeably warmer, courtesy of the discreet serving of vanilla, benzoin and florals. But it's the undercurrent of civet that really grabs one's attention – accentuating a caramelised floral sweetness, while providing a sultry, animalic edge to the proceedings.

Resting on what appears to be a subdued foundation of sweet woods, it's a very successful excursion from two perfumers who previously hadn't ventured into gourmand territory. However, based on the finished product, one feels that Antonio's olfactory style shines through more than Bruno's. In addition, both projection and tenacity could have been more substantial.

Nevertheless, what saves the day is the positively unorthodox approach and a generous serving of civet. But it's good to know that genuine creativity, in niche perfumery, is still alive and well.

Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d'Empire

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, orange, clementine, tangerine, blackcurrant, iodine, coriander, pink pepper, black pepper, cumin, galbanum, neroli, orange blossom, geranium, rose, henna, hay, moss

Azemour les Orangers is partly named after the ancient city of Azemmour, near the Atlantic coast of Morocco. However, from an olfactory perspective, it's also a tribute to the orange groves where Parfum d'Empire's founder, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, spent his childhood.

Classified as a fruity-chypré, it's a gloriously succulent and vibrant scent, which successfully strives to capture the olfactory facets of an orange grove close to the sea. With an array of citrus accords, the opening is zesty, buoyant and clean, with both the grapefruit and blackcurrant providing an additional dimension to a rich orange-clementine-tangerine alliance. The galbanum bequeaths a leafy greenness, and the incidental aromas from the dusty Moroccan winds are represented by dry spices and a subtle oceanic saltiness from the iodine.

With a soft floral core, the citruses are further fleshed out by the neroli and orange blossom – the combination of which adds a honeyed sweetness to the proceedings. The rose is discreet yet discernible, and the geranium acts as a floral-related segue between the galbanum and the woody-aromatic base. With the foundation largely comprising of henna, hay and moss, the final moments on the skin are redolent of dried grass, on a hot sunny day, with gentle wafts from an orange grove intermingled with the salty air.

On the whole, it's a sweet yet graceful release, with a soapiness that could be attributed to the stealth addition of some white musk in the base. As for the inclusion of cumin and grapefruit, any fears of a body odour aspect can be promptly discarded. And while its staying power of over six hours is impressive, it tends to remain close to the skin.

Regardless of this, one is unable to deny that it offers an abundance of complexity, depth and charm.

Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: Egyptian jasmine, iris, frankincense, leather, styrax, cistus, benzoin, tonka bean, vanilla, Tolu balsam

Cuir Ottoman is based on "the secular tradition of leatherwork in Anatolia", during the Ottoman rule.

The opening is very alluring, with an authentic leather accord that's slightly smoky yet unmistakeably clean (as opposed to animalic). Combined with dusty florals, the composite aroma is extremely reminiscent of brand new leather goods, with fresh trails of leather finishing chemicals greeting the nose. Furthermore, one is also able to discern olfactory parallels between Cuir Ottoman and Bulgari's Black, but Cuir Ottoman is far less dark, smoky and synthetic, with a much more refined and feminine demeanour.

As the composition further evolves, a combination of iris and frankincense further supports the opening until the leather is more suede-like. With a base of balsams and resins, the eventual drydown is gentle, warm, creamy, slightly smoky and bittersweet. And as amber subtleties intermingle with remnants of frankincense, suede and a lipstick-like iris, Cuir Ottoman's drydown is highly reminiscent of Guerlain's Bois d'Arménie.

All in all, it's an elegant, versatile and easy to wear fragrance, but its performance on the skin could have been better. Still, Cuir Ottoman is a remarkable creation that acts as a feasible alternative to Serge Lutens' relatively smoke-free Daim Blond (but with apricot kernel and white musk instead of a resinous-balsamic foundation).

L'Homme Sage by Divine

*****

Year: 2005

Notes: mandarin, lychee, saffron, cardamom, mace, fir balsam, everlasting flower, patchouli, amber, Atlas cedar, frankincense, styrax, guaiac wood, oakmoss

After sampling the fragrances from Divine, one hasn't been left too impressed. After all, for a small independent niche house, one was expecting a few well-composed winners instead of mainly lacklustre releases. However, with L'Homme Sage, one is happy to report that it's an exception to a very disappointing oeuvre.

As a spicy woody-oriental, it's a compelling, sophisticated and seductive effort. With a spirited opening of fruits and spices, the lychee yields a watery rose-like pulpy sweetness that perfectly complements the saffron. The other spices are well-balanced, with a slightly green aromatic slant from both the cardamom and mace.

With a spicy tea demeanour, comprised of tender fruity overtones, the everlasting flower eventually emerges – setting the scene for a rich and complex woody base. The drydown is remarkably blended, with woody, earthy, ambery and mossy accents, all the while interwoven with tinges of incense and leather. From beginning to end, its evolution is impressively smooth and silky, with the amber substituting the lychee even before the fruitiness has completed subsided.

Situated in the same ambery ballpark as Tauer Perfumes' L'Air du Désert Marocain, with a woody base vaguely similar to Guerlain's Héritage, L'Homme Sage could possibly be viewed as the precursor to Puredistance's M. And while L'Homme Sage isn't as leathery, it's just as sensual and refined – sharing a similar spicy sweetness that resides on a beautiful bed of moss and woods.

But, for all its virtues, it does feel somewhat incomplete, but this could be due to its bare or minimal structure. And despite its apparent richness and excellent tenacity, its presence on the skin can be too demure for one's tastes. But, regardless of these flaws, it certainly deserves the praise it's been receiving over the years.

Living Lavender by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, lime, bitter orange, lavandin, lavender, tonka bean

Living Lavender is a deliciously sweet citrus creation, where the name is somewhat of a misnomer.

The citrus introduction is both deliriously candied and powdery, and is redolent of sherbet lemon boiled sweets. The grapefruit intensifies the lemon's acerbic properties, while both the orange and lime merely serve to provide an extra citric dimension. And just like the confection, the olfactory effect is excessively sweet, full-bodied and extremely tantalising.

As it progresses towards the mid notes, the lavandin and lavender coupling gradually emerge, in the midst of a lemon-induced sugar frosted haze. The tonka bean, which was already evident from the offset, slowly increases its stature while the citrus accords begin to recede. It's at this point that one is briefly reminded of Profumum's Dulcis in Fundo and, later on to a larger extent, Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI.

With the late-drydown consisting of tonka bean, traces of citrus and lavender, and possibly oakmoss, one feels that the name fails to adequately describe the fragrance itself. And although some lavender is quite perceptible throughout, it pretty much resides in the background. But, in saying that, it's still a lovely powdery and creamy citrus offering for those who have a sweet tooth.

Projection is moderate but it gracefully lingers on the skin for at least six hours.

Attimi by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: grapefruit, clary sage, lavandin, chamomile, rosewood

Being 100% natural, Attimi isn't tenacious nor a powerhouse by any means.

Instead, it's very reminiscent of a traditional Eau de Cologne, with grapefruit, light woods and aromatic accents. After the grapefruit, the next noticeable accord is the clary sage, adding a green herbaceous touch. And both the lavandin and camomile further reinforce that herbaceous aspect, instead of revealing an outright floral core. One can also discern a suggestive spiciness throughout most of its lifespan.

As for the drydown, it's slightly citrusy yet sublime, featuring rosewood and possibly a hint of either castoreum or civet. With a gentle creaminess, a discreet faecal quality and a sweet sherbet-like texture, towards the end, one finds its evolution positively engaging.

Lasting under four hours, it's extremely pleasant for what it is. One's only reservation is that the grapefruit isn't as fresh or bracing as originally expected. Still, the quality of the ingredients is apparent, it's well-executed and is very affordable for an Eau de Parfum.

Lavanda Fizz by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, verbena, lavandin, lavender, neroli

As the name suggests, Lavanda Fizz is a sprightly hesperidic, spiked with some lavender, within the context of a classic Eau de Cologne (but in Eau de Parfum concentration).

With a wonderfully effervescent citrus and lavender blast, its natural freshness is truly captivating. The demure verbena reinforces the citrus aspect, but it's the sweetness of neroli that adds a lovely touch to the composition as a whole. Right until the very end, all the ingredients are well-proportioned and blended exceedingly well, with a drydown that's just as sweet, bright and clean as the mid notes.

Perfectly unisex and extremely easy to wear, it's literally a breath of fresh air when compared to many modern, and somewhat ostentatious, niche releases. Possessing modest sillage, and persisting for around three hours, one wished it lasted just as long as other releases from this impressive niche house.

Regardless of this minor quibble, it's an excellent effort that all lovers of Eaux de Cologne should investigate.

Bombay Bling by Neela Vermeire Creations

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: lychee, mango, blackcurrant, cumin, cardamom, cistus, Turkish rose, frangipani, Madagascan ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac, tuberose, gardenia, vanilla, tobacco, patchouli, cedar, white woods, sandalwood

"This joyful creation embodies every aspect of the very modern, colourful, eclectic, esoteric, ecstatic, liberal, happy side of buzzing India..."

And joyful is how Bombay Bling starts off, with an exuberant and colourful array of fruity accords. The mango is ever so succulent and the blackcurrant adds a slightly green jamminess to the proceedings. With a distinctive creamy undertone being discernible, such an introduction is a mouth-watering olfactory feast.

As it evolves, the vanillic creaminess increases its depth, as white florals and a touch of spices accompany it. With remnants of the fruity top notes still discernible, the overall aroma is akin to that of a deliciously creamy dessert. But, much to its credit, the sweetness is never overwhelming and always manages to remain alluring rather than cloying.

A floral mélange slowly comes more to the fore, adding more complexity to the vanillic sweetness. With rose, jasmine and gardenia being the most identifiable, one can almost briefly detect the aroma of ripe mango skin amongst the dreamy floral creaminess, even though the mango flesh chord has now largely faded.

Resting on a soft base of woods, one doesn't find the woody drydown too intrusive, with possibly the cedar and sandalwood having more prominence. With a woody creaminess, the composition becomes dark and gritty, but still continues to showcase its creamy floral properties until the very end.

While Bombay Bling isn't groundbreaking, what makes it so special are the fruity notes and the luscious floral-vanilla coupling. It's well-composed, evolves seamlessly and leaves a positive lasting impression on the wearer. And although one didn't detect much tobacco in the mix, there was certainly a subtle golden warmth that could be attributed to this accord.

Providing modest projection, it could have been more tenacious. However, with such wonderful olfactory virtues on display, the rating truly reflects Bertrand Duchaufour's mastery when he really hits his stride.

Honey Aoud by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Sri Lankan cinnamon, flowers, honey, Sumatran patchouli, Madagascar vanilla, Laotian oud, leather, amber

After a fleeting animalic facet, Honey Aoud opens up to reveal a voluptuously sweet array of honey, cinnamon and florals.

The honey is extremely inviting, with a comforting warmth, while a generous serving of cinnamon enhances the gourmand introduction. As for the florals, they are pretty much indistinguishable but exude delicious cherry-like subtleties. As a result, the overall effect is balsamic, soft and mellow.

As it approaches the core, the patchouli and vanilla surface to provide a creamy woodiness to the proceedings. And as the top notes gradually subside, it slowly transforms into something darker and woodier (but noticeably restrained). And all the while, the honey accord still lingers in the background.

The oud and leather are kept to a bare minimum, so as not to compromise the composition's dulcified concept. Instead, some amber reinforces the now almost caramelised sweetness that gently pulsates. With the honey now having almost faded, during the drydown, the amber takes over and continues to interact with the demure leather and woods – with only musky woody-amber murmurs remaining some hours later.

Unlike Aoud Lavender, Montale has finally managed to completely steer away from the tired rose-oud pairing, and successfully produce something both new and unconventional. And while Honey Aoud isn't a powerhouse, and could have been a little more challenging (possibly with the addition of some beeswax), it's still probably the best Montale oud creation in recent years.

Whatever the reasons for this unexpected renaissance in this house's creativity, one certainly hopes that more substantially rewarding offerings are on the horizon.

Orange Flowers by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Sicilian lemon and mandarin, spices, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, honey, Sumatran patchouli, vanilla, cedar, oakmoss, white musk

Commencing with a heady opening of succulent citruses, spices and orange blossom, Orange Flowers seems to be a second stab at perfecting the commercially unobtainable Fleur d'Oranger (according to Pierre Montale, the composition was deemed too much of a failure to be officially released).

While Orange Flowers is very similar to its original incarnation, it appears to be spicier, with a more intoxicating warmth from the combination of white florals and honey. A touch of vanilla adds a subdued creamy sweetness, while the woods remain unobtrusively in the background. With a brief powderiness towards the drydown, some patchouli, oakmoss and white musk are clearly evident in the base.

Overall, Orange Flowers is a smooth, lush and beguiling rendition of orange blossom that's more complex than Fleur d'Oranger. One also finds it more endearing than other neroli or orange blossom offerings on the market. If one hadn't sampled Fleur d'Oranger, one would have been none the wiser, and probably would have proclaimed Orange Flowers to be a return to form for this popular niche house. Sadly, this isn't the case, as it's simply an old formulation that's been tweaked and improved.

It's the first Montale fragrance that one can recommend in quite a while. And just like Fleur d'Oranger, Orange Flowers' projection is moderate but its longevity is very good.

Finally, a thumbs-up for Montale!

Pomélo Paradis by Atelier Cologne

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Florida pink pomelo, Calabrian mandarin, Chinese mint, blackcurrant bud from Burgundy, Moroccan orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, iris from Tuscany, amber, Haitian vetiver

Comment: Pomélo Paradis is part of the Collection Originale

Pomélo Paradis is undoubtedly one of Atelier Cologne's finest offerings to date. As a rendition of the exuberant zestiness of the grapefruit-like pomelo, it's in the same league as Orange Sanguine and Cédrat Enivrant.

The top notes are extremely realistic – with a citrus astringency, typically associated with grapefruit, enhanced by a juicy combination of mandarin and blackcurrant. The opening faithfully reproduces the olfactory sensation of tearing into a ripe pomelo, which harbours an invigorating tartness within its succulent pulp. But what makes this composition so successful is how it also manages to completely avoid the body odour pitfall, which many grapefruit-based fragrances have fallen prey to.

As it develops, the floral aspect never intrudes and the amber is never too sweet. And while the vetiver provides a light woody backdrop, one can also identify a suggestive civet-like infusion in the base, which provides a very sensual nuance – so much one that finds the drydown just as captivating as its citreous introduction. During the late-drydown, remnants of citrus still remain but it's now woodier, with the animal musk aspect being a little more discernible.

What one especially loves about Pomélo Paradis is that, from beginning to end, it's full of interesting twists and turns. It's also a beguiling effort that restores some faith in this niche house. Now, if only most of this house's other releases were just as good...

Projection is moderate but its staying power is above average for what it is.

Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, magnolia, amber, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, moss

Compared to other floral offerings from this house, Eau de Magnolia is conceptually very different.

Both its name and luminous aura implies that it's a magnolia-infused Eau de Cologne. However, its main focus isn't on the floral aspect. Regardless of this, one views Eau de Magnolia as the female counterpart to Cologne Bigarade and Bigarade Concentrée.

The citrus opening is sparkling, uplifting and buoyant, and effortlessly melds with the impending magnolia. With fresh, green and fruity properties, the magnolia (also known as white champa) acts as a complementary bridge for the almost aldehydic citrus top notes and the verdant earthiness that soon follows. As it evolves, the amber accentuates the floral component, while the evident woods are mellow and well-balanced.

Overall, its performance is both smooth and sanguine, with a linear simplicity that deceptively belies the skill in its execution. Also, when compared to traditional Eaux de Cologne, it possesses much better tenacity – easily persisting for six hours. And while it might be considered less impressive than the floral releases that preceded it, it still comes across as warmer, more humane... and quite possibly suitable enough even for a maid.

Being the first Frédéric Malle fragrance by Carlos Benaim, one senses a lot of potential.

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****

Year: 2003

Notes: wine dregs, blue camomile, geranium, Turkish rose, truffle, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum

After the mediocre Lipstick Rose, Une Rose is a massive improvement from this French niche house.

It's a well-executed rose soliflore, with a complementary booziness from the wine dregs, a lush rose accord, a minty green vibrancy from the geranium, dark earthy aspects from the truffle and patchouli, and primal nuances from the castoreum. All of these come together to create a vivid rendition of rose, which magnifies the star note and exudes an almost gothic romanticism.

Unlike many other rose fragrances, it isn't fresh, dewy, soapy or powdery, even though the citrus opening may briefly suggest otherwise. Instead, it's a dusky and voluptuous crimson affair, with the rose's honeyed plum-like sweetness seeping through. And as opposed to possessing a youthful pink-infused femininity, the overall effect is more brooding, sensual and sophisticated.

Unfortunately, its evolution isn't perfect from start to finish. As it further develops, the musky drydown turns out to be the composition's Achilles' heel – featuring a trite cocktail of acetone and white musks. Although the dark rose aroma is still evident, one would have preferred a less synthetic conclusion. While one wouldn't class this stage as grating, it's certainly discernible to a degree.

Composed by Edouard Flechier, who also created Lys Méditerranée, Une Rose is somewhat flawed but still an impressive effort. With both these offerings being so well-received, on this blog, one does wonder why Frédéric Malle and Edouard Flechier haven't teamed-up again since.

Providing adequate sillage and longevity, it should also be pointed out that its price tag is very expensive.

Le Parfum de Thérèse by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****

Year: 2000

Notes: mandarin, melon, coriander, pepper, nutmeg, violet, rose, jasmine, plum, leather, cedar, vetiver

Originally created in the 1950s, by the late Edmond Roudnistka, Le Parfum de Thérèse was a well-kept secret – previously never commercially available and named after his wife, Thérèse, who was the only person allowed to wear it at the time.

As Frédéric Malle had relished this fragrance throughout his childhood, years later, he sought permission from the Roudnistka family to release it commercially. Interestingly enough, without their consent, this French niche house would never have come to be, as Malle considered Le Parfum de Thérèse to be a crucial creation for his newly proposed 'publishing house'.

Le Parfum de Thérèse is considered to be the blueprint for Edmond's later compositions, particularly Christian Dior's Diorissimo. However, Le Parfum de Thérèse also shares key accords with an earlier creation, Diorama, which was released in 1949 (i.e. melon, pepper, nutmeg, violet, lily of the valley, jasmine, plum, leather, cedar and vetiver). Based on this, it's clear that Edmond Roudnistka had already established his own unique olfactory style by this point.

With a spicy fruitiness, alongside a herbaceous-ozonic backdrop of coriander and lily of the valley (unlisted but still discernible), this fruity-floral could have been considered ahead of its time back in the day. Exhibiting a hint of violet, a juicy plumminess and a worn-in leather note, all these aspects are impeccably blended, alongside a resounding cantaloupe-like freshness.

Effortlessly exuding a Parisian chic aura, one's only reservations are that it lacks sufficient projection and could have had better staying power. But, irrespective of its flaws, Le Parfum de Thérèse serves as a reminder of just how magical the golden age of perfumery once was.

It's a beguiling masterpiece, which makes Frédéric Malle's all or nothing ethos all the more poignant.

Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****

Year: 2000

Notes: bergamot, aldehydes, apricot, sage, cumin, cassie, violet, rose, mimosa, jasmine, salicylate, carnation, clove, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, musk cetone

With Dominique Ropion at the helm, Une Fleur de Cassie is a nostalgic and dexterous aldehydic-floral, which towers above most of the feminine dreck being released nowadays. Incorporating a certain degree of modernity, it's also a challenging composition that refuses to please everyone.

Opening with citrus and aldehydes, one senses a heady and cumin-infused botanical floral trail, which smells both industrial and indolic at the same time. Enshrouded in a fog of rubber and exhaust fumes, with underlying vegetal, metallic and doughy accents, it's impossible to overlook its austere and detached floral premise. With that in mind, one can also discern certain olfactory parallels between Une Fleur de Cassie and Carnal Flower, which was released five years later.

It's been mentioned elsewhere that the general aroma is similar to that of stale tap water in a vase, and there's a certain element of truth in that. Beyond the generous serving of jasmine, the dusky rose, the subdued violet, the carnation's spicy nuances, and the verdancy of both the cassie and mimosa, there's a dank green ozonic quality present. When combined, this earthy and animalic cocktail of herbs, spices, florals, woods and musks closely allude to the aforementioned description.

Featuring a light base of woods, vanilla and white musk, its projection and longevity are both alarmingly subpar. While this is disappointing, one can't deny that it's refined, complex and cerebral in its abstract androgyny. For that alone, one will award it an extra star.

Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

*****

Year: 1988

Notes: myrtle, nutmeg, lavender, labdanum, vanilla, coumarin, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, ambergris

Comment: Ambre Précieux is part of Les Parfums du Levant Collection / Eau de Toilette review

Composed by the late Jean-François Laporte, Ambre Précieux is a marvellous amber creation that improves on his earlier amber offering, L'Artisan's L'Eau d'Ambre.

Sweet, powdery, resinous, spicy, creamy, warm, comforting, sensual, intoxicating and mellow are just some of the many adjectives that adequately sum up this masterpiece. With salty ambergris nuances, Ambre Précieux is an exemplary representation of this genre.

Opening with a fleeting myrtle note, the lavender and spices are evident but remain restrained throughout. With a touch of vanilla in the background, the composition mainly focuses on the labdanum, coumarin, balsams and ambergris. It's neither cloying nor too sweet, and envelops the wearer with a deliciously soft and alluring aura of balsamic resins.

In comparison to some of the other popular niche amber releases, Histoires de Parfums' Ambre 114 is sweeter and smoother, L'Artisan's L'Eau d'Ambre Extrême is very similar but slightly richer, Serge Lutens' Ambre Sultan is more herbaceous and austere, Montale's Blue Amber has greater presence, while Profumi del Forte's Ambra Mediterranea is darker, woodier and more intense.

Surprisingly, Ambre Précieux lasts the entire day, which is exceptional for an Eau de Toilette. However, since it wears very close to the skin, one often wishes that it had more projection (hence the rating). Maybe this is due to its reformulation, as one has never sampled the vintage juice, but one can't be entirely sure.

Regardless of this, it's undoubtedly one of the best quality niche ambers around, and its influence on the niche ambers that soon followed should never be underestimated.

Cédrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Moroccan citron, Mexican lime, Chinese mint, Egyptian basil, Macedonian juniper berry, Philippine elemi, Haitian vetiver, Brazilian tonka bean

Comment: Cédrat Enivrant is part of the Collection Originale

Cédrat Enivrant commences, as the name states, with an explosive citrus frenzy.

Unlike most of the recent releases from this house, it's very much a straightforward citrus-aromatic that's juicy, tangy and incredibly invigorating. The herbaceous aspects of the mint and basil perfectly complement the lime, and the juniper imparts a crisp, sweet and slightly woody aroma that adds further depth.

The juniper effortlessly segues into the base notes of vetiver and tonka bean, which are both quite discreet yet substantial. Fortunately, even when the drydown later becomes perceptible, the sparkling array of citruses still continue to persist for some time.

In terms of performance, its projection is initially impressive but, after a couple of hours, becomes a skin scent. As for longevity, for a quality citrus-based fragrance, a heavy application would be naturally expected. However, even when lightly applied, it still softly lingers on the skin for a minimum of six hours.

Overall, it's a natural-smelling and well-blended traditional cologne, with a contemporary twist. It's also good to see Atelier Cologne going back to what it does best. And while Orange Sanguine remains a personal favourite, one enjoys Cédrat Enivrant just a little bit more.

Turtle Vetiver Front by LesNez

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: Haitian vetiver, coconut lactone, moss, ambergris

Comment: Turtle Vetiver Front is a limited edition release

The name, Turtle Vetiver Front, depicts the order in which the vetiver is discernible, in relation to the other notes – in this case, first or at the forefront.

Created by Isabelle Doyen, it also comprises of coconut lactone, moss and ambergris, but these aren't merely decorative components. What makes Turtle Vetiver Front an intriguing creation is how, with the aid of the extra notes, the olfactory profile of the Haitian vetiver is kept relatively intact, while being enhanced.

With a short-lived nutty nuance, the opening possesses an inky smokiness that's not too overwhelming. When the smoky aspect subsides, it reveals a milky core, courtesy of the lactone fleshing out the creamy element of the vetiver. As the lactone increases its presence, the mild earthiness of the vetiver dwindles even further.

During the drydown, vetiver remnants come into contact with the ambergris and hay-like moss, complementing the grassy and ethereal demeanour of the Haitian vetiver. After a while, what's left are these two tertiary chords, plus faint traces of lactone and vetiver, tenderly emitting sweet, salty and earthy murmurs.

Mostly remaining close the skin, with good longevity, it doesn't possess the rawness or density of other vetiver offerings. However, for an Eau de Parfum, it's still quite substantial. Furthermore, it isn't as dark, earthy or edgy as its predecessor, Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1, noticeably coming across as more unisex. One would even go so far to say that Turtle Vetiver Front would make a splendid contemporary substitute for Guerlain's Djedi.

Although one no longer has any interest in wearing vetiver fragrances (as one feels that vetiver essential oils are more rewarding to wear), Turtle Vetiver Front makes an excellent compromise.

Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1 by LesNez

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: citrus, vetiver

Comment: Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1 is a limited edition release

Limited to 80 bottles, the Turtle Vetiver series began with Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1. Created by Isabelle Doyen, each consecutive batch, or new release, conveys a different perspective on the vetiver theme.

Featuring a bright citrus accord, it's a bold, damp and earthy vetiver devoid of any sweetness. Any added notes are minimal and, like vetiver essential oil, it possesses a rooty green complexity. There's also a mineral nuance that, when fused with the dampness of the vetiver, imparts an aura not too dissimilar from moist granite covered in soil and foliage.

As the mineral aspect eventually dissipates, the vetiver becomes softer and woodier, while still retaining its raw earthy depth. The darkness of the vetiver still resides but is less commanding – revealing a more approachable side to its down-to-earth demeanour. And when things finally draw to a close, the persisting traces of vetiver are cleaner, clearer and somewhat brighter.

While it's earthier than Guerlain's Vetiver and Frédéric Malle's Vétiver Extraordinaire, it's not as strictly hardcore as Profumum's Fumidus or Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Route du Vétiver, but nestles somewhere in-between. Providing minimal sillage and great tenacity, an Eau de Parfum would have been even closer to perfection.

On the whole, it's an impressively gritty vetiver fragrance, which isn't afraid to reveal its true colours.

Oud / Oudh Osmanthus by Mona di Orio

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: Calabrian green mandarin, Paraguayan petitgrain, Philippine elemi, apricot, honey, Chinese osmanthus, jasmine, Laotian oud, Indonesian patchouli, Indian cypriol, Atlas cedar, ambergris, musk

Comment: Oud / Oudh Osmanthus is part of Les Nombres d'Or Collection

When the late Mona di Orio first announced launching her interpretation of oud, one wasn't pleased at all. With so many synthetic oud fragrances available, one was hoping for some niche houses to resist the temptation of joining the 'oud club'. But, after sampling Oud, one has been left both impressed and pleasantly surprised.

Since genuine oud oil has become increasingly scarce and more expensive, one was surprised to discover that Oud would contain high-quality Laotian oud oil – especially as this variety of oud oil is now extremely difficult to attain (wild Laotian agarwood trees are now an endangered species). With syrupy sweet, animalic and leathery undertones, Mona's creation certainly contains the real thing. But what's even more astounding is the degree of complexity and originality it encompasses.

Unlike most oud fragrances, there's no reliance on the now clichéd coupling of rose and saffron. Instead, Mona incorporated a complementary union of osmanthus, apricot and honey, alongside a gentle serving of citrus and elemi (in addition to a base of dark smoky woods and musks). The oud is present throughout the composition's development, but remains soft and modest. All in all, the blending is velvety smooth, warm, refined and utterly beautiful, with understated jasmine embellishments.

Oud isn't really about showcasing Laotian oud, but rather demonstrating the juxtaposition between Laotian oud and the honeyed nectar-infused sweetness of the osmanthus. Providing moderate sillage and longevity of under six hours, it's easily wearable, and bestows both an exotic and esoteric aura.

Yes, it's considerably expensive. Yes, from a reliable source, some quality oud oil can probably be acquired for a similar price. And, yes, it could have had better sillage and been longer lasting. However, as it stands, Oud is Mona's crowning achievement and remains one of the most unique Western renditions of oud around.